New Home Photo Gallery (continued)
 

Single left click on any photo to enlarge it


Photo #31
You can't (well, you shouldn't) hack huge holes in your floor joists
 This 2X10 floor joist now has an effective strength roughly equal to a 2X3. That leaves a weak spot -- right under a tub that's heavy when filled with water and a user.


Photo #32
Why would this look right?
 A poorly cut rafter end such as these leaves the rafter susceptible to movement and cracking and makes it more likely to fail in the event of occurrences such as high winds or snow loads. The cut end of the rafter should fit snugly against the ridge board along its entire length. A gazillion nails won't correct a sloppy cut.


Photo #33
Time to tighten up the drain plug
The emergency (secondary) drain pan under the A/C evaporator coil in the attic was already rusty, and the wood support platform for the system was beginning to rot due to leakage from the condensate discharge from the coil. If not fixed, the platform would rot and the system would eventually slump into the pan. Since gas lines and wiring would be affected, this is not a good idea. This occurred prior to occupancy--after one summer of use!

  



Photo #34
All those holes in the hanger are there for a reason
 And it isn't to save weight...it's that nails are supposed to be placed in them. ALL of them except for the diamond shaped ones. Notice that there are no nails into the joist itself. Also, there are fewer than half the required nails into the ledger board.

There is also no flashing at the bottom of the deck ledger board -- this was allowing water to get behind the synthetic stucco where it was causing rot damage to the wall sheathing and studs below the deck.

Click on the thumbnail below to see a photo from inside the crawlspace showing the wet (dark) wood and sheathing. This will rot quickly.





Photo #35
A water heater drip pan is a great idea
 But it works much better if it is actually under the water heater -- especially the water lines/ fittings! The only thing this pan is under is the yellow gas line. (This is a tankless unit, but it still should have a pan in locations where leakage could cause damage -- such as the attic here.)


Photo #36
What part of the arrow used to indicate UP is hard to understand? And what does "HOT" spell when upside down?
 This is a combination intake and exhaust vent for a type of gas fireplace called a "direct vent." Despite the word stamped in the housing (and a helpful arrow) it was installed upside down. This would not have worked correctly and could have led to the production of carbon monoxide. Had it worked at all, it would have resulted in combustion waste gases being drawn into the fireplace! Do you still think that installers read the manuals or always use common sense? This home sat for the better part of a year before sale--plenty of time for someone to have noticed this issue.


 
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